Ed Hartleys RC

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Just for those who are friends or will be soon!

On this page are a few tips and tricks you may find useful in building your airplane. I use these on the planes I build/install equipment in. Some are by other folks, be sure you thank them if you get the opportunity!

Ed Hartley

Companies that give me great
service beyond the expected!

The Easy Way To Get The Backing Off
Monokote

Put a new 11 blade in a Xacto knife. (I keep a second one just for this purpose since it will stay sharp.)

Slide the point just under the backing between the backing and the film, first picture. Then you roll up a bit of the backing by twisting the knife. Do this close to a corner and it will pull the backing loose from the corner in an easy fashion, second picture.

Now take the free part and pull it off the piece of Monokote you are working on, third picture.

This is the best way I have found to do this. It sure saves a lot of time!

All the many pieces on my SPA planes, and others I have covered were done in this fashion.

Ed Hartley

Another way to make a decal!

Phil Spelt put me on to a paper made by Avery #8665, not to expensive. I use an Epson Stylus PHOTO 1280 and printed the logo as if it were "Premium Glossy Photo Paper", (Epson Thing). In reality the highest print quality I could use. Now with the Epson ink this print is waterproof but I don't believe this is necessary. If the coating you spray on makes it run, try a couple of very light coats to start with.

The decal paper took that heavy ink nicely. That said I purchased a can of Rust-Oleum "Crystal Clear Enamel". Three good coats of this makes a nice shiny decal. Let it dry between coats and it goes faster. I put mine in the direct sun light and it didn't seem to bother anything. The sample at the right is the first one I tried

Phil Spelt - Ed Hartley

The Dreaded Throttle Linkage

Servo Connection

Once again, I thank Phil Cope KCRC for his original idea on this linkage. His original used an adjuster on the servo link! I use just one piece of .040 piano wire routed through a antenna sleeve. You could use a piece of the "yellow" (inside) portion of Nyrod. The servo connection shows how I bend the wire and solder it to the chrome connector. The real trick is to have your servo centered with no sub trim, trim and 100% travel in both directions. Trim the wire where it just clears the carburetor as it operates. Center the servo stick, cut the wire about 1/4" longer then the hole where the throttle arm is centered, bend a 90 degree turn in the wire and place it through the hole Now use your computer radio to adjust top - low end positions of the throw. The spring tension alone will hold the wire in position. No need for any gismos to hold the wire on the control arm. The spring tension does that nicely. Quick, simple and works well.

Phil Cope - Ed Hartley

Connection to Arm

Pull Pull Using a Guitar String

Guitar String

I go to the local guitar store and buy this string. It is .018" in diameter and is solid steel. It takes solder just fine. BTW, I always use 60/40 tin with electronic type flux.

Notice the white components have the ball bearing type connectors and the servo arm has the HD ball links. I use these on the servos and ball bearing type connectors every where else. Slop in the control surfaces hurts your flying!

Components

Cable Ready to Insert

The picture to the left shows about how much to bend the guitar cable before inserting it into the adjuster for soldering.

The Cable inserted picture shows it ready for soldering.

When you start, be sure you insert the cable into the body with the brass ball on the end outside. Making the assumption

Cable Inserted

Solder Cable

you have measured everything all ok and soldered all four ends, your installation should look like the pictures to the right.

Ed Hartley

Servo Connections

Rudder Connections

Fuel Tank Setup

Ever have a problem with the clunk after a hard landing? This may solve your problem!

I have changed it a bit. First solder a piece of tubing to the clunk, or slide a piece of neoprene tubing over a piece of metal tubing and plug the clunk into the end. Leave a tiny space between the clunk and the copper tube if you do it this way!

When you assemble the tank, leave at least a 1/4" between the clunk end and the back of the tank.

And you are all set! (see insert) Click on the image for a larger view.

Phil Cope - Ed Hartley